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Yunnan - The
South - West of China
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Chinas south-western Province, Yunnan borders Burma in
the west, and Laos anf Vietnam in the south. Yunnan is a
Chinese province with a great variety of peoples. There
are 26 different nationalities on the Yunnan Guizhou high
plateau, mostly peasants in the mountain villages, while
in the towns Han Chinese predominates. The Yi, Naxi, Bai
and Dai are amongst the most populous groups in the
province. There are no grand buildings, archaelogical
finds or cultural artefacts to be viewed by travellers.
It is the unspoilt countryside, rare animals, rich flora
and the variety of ethnic groups and their cultural
traditions that attract.
Dukou ,
the town on the Sichuan border is an artificial creation,
constructed out of nothing and as uninviting as many of
the Siberian settlements that probably served as an
example in the 1950s. All the inhabitants are strangers
from other provinces. The indigenous people, particularly
the Yi, live in the mountain village. Visitors are
usually greeted at the entrance of the village, where
people will do a circle dance around a fire, in simple,
rhythmical steps to the sounds of the Lusheng, a reed
flute. Hospitality is shown mainly by offering plenty of
spirits, and older inhabitants will sing spontaneously
improvised texts of old tunes to greet the guests.
The road from Dukou to Lijiang,
the area of the Naxi people, crosses several mountain
passes and narrow gorges. Huge rocks, tumbling waterfalls
and wild streams make visitors aware of the force of
nature. The Black Dragon Pond (Heilongtan) in
Lijian, offers a marvellous view of the Jade Dragon
Mountain which stood at 5,600 metres high,
dominates the open Lijiang plain. In a small park is Five
Phoenix Pavilion, which exhibits Naxi cultural artefacts.
A small institute dedicated for research into Naxi
culture is also located in the park. The Jade Dragon
Mountain has so far resisted any human attempts to
conquer it. No expedition has yet succeeded in reaching
its summit.
The town
of Dali takes its name from a proud and powerful
empire that ruled in south-west China from the 10th
to the 13th century before Kublai Khan
conquered this remote corner of the empire. The Bai people, had already
created the first kingdom called Nanzhao three centuries
before. The last, well preserved relics of that culture
can be seen in the caves of the Stone Bell Mountain
(Shizhongshan). It contain both religious sculptures and
several depictions of the kings of Nanzhao. The symbols of
Dali, which is known in the whole of China, are the Three
Pagodas (Dali Santa). The central pagoda which stands at
70 metres high dates from the 9th century and used to
stand in the centre of a temple. During restoration work
in 1978, more than 600 different artefacts were
discovered, hidden in the buildings. They date from the 7th
to 10th century. The Pagodas of Dali are
painted white. Bai means "white", but its real
significance is still not known.
Kunming, the City of Spring is the capital of
Yunnan province with nearly two million population is
situated on a 2,000 metres high plateau. Its protected
location favours a mild climate, making it spring all
year round. Green Lake, located to the north of the town
is a favourite spot for the local resident with its
lovely promenades, small temples and pavilions. Different
cultural artefacts from the different nationalities can
be found in the Yunnan Provincial Museum. On the southern
edge of the town is Lake Dianchi. It is the sixth-largest
inland lake in China with its 40 km long and 8 km wide.
The main attraction of Kumming is the Stone Forest
(Shilin). The "trees" in this almost 26,000
hectares forest consist of narrow, bizarrely shaped rock
needles which are between 5 and 30 metres tall. This
karst formation goes back about 200 million years when
the earth crust rose and the waters from a lake receded.
A huge rock carved with the two symbols , Shi and Lin,
greet visitors at the entrance to the approximately 80
hectares area usually toured.
Xishuangbanna is most easily
reached by flying from Kumming to Jinghong, the capital
of the Autonomous District. This Chinese looking town
gets crowded with peasants from the outlying villages,
mostly the Dai who made up one-third of the population.
There are few sacral buildings to see and the most
striking and beautiful is the White Pagoda
of Damenglong, located 50 km south of Jinglong. Legend
has it that the feet of Buddha are burried in this
pagoda, which has been built in the very distinct
South-East Asian style.
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