Surakarta (Solo)
generally receives far less
attention from foreign visitor than its neighbour
Yogyakarta. This is curious from the point of
view of Javanese as Surakarta is the older and
more refined royal center, the arbiter of
cultivated speech and
anstocratic elegance in traditional Java. It is
an excellent place for the unhurried shopper who
likes to explore out of the way places, in the
hope of finding hidden treassure. To begin with
there is a sizeable antique industry and many
dealers collect and restore old
European, Javanese and Chinese furniture.
The starting point for any tressure is Pasar
Triwindu. Surakarta is
also the home of Indonesias largest batik
manufacturer. It is also the
place to see wayang orange dance performance or a
wayang kulit shadow play.
Surabaya the
provincial capital of East
Java, was the largest and most important seaport
in the archipelago.It still rank second after
Jakarta Tanjung Priok, with more than 400 years
of colourful history behind it. Surabaya is a
hot, sprawling cityof almost 4 million. It is
known as a city of heroes because of the momentous first battle of
the revolution,
fought here in November 1945. Kali Mas canal,
which lies at the
very heart of the 19th century commercial
district, is where many
dilapidated Dutch warehouses and office building
still stand.
Pulau
Madura, neighbor to Surabaya, is
famous for its annual bull races. It is a strange
sport, this kerapan sapi. According to the
Madurese, racing bulls wasc used to be for
plowing in the rice field. Today, they are
specially bred for racing and is considerable
source of regional pride.
Tretes is one
of the best bases for temple-tripping is the
delightful mountain resort, just 55 km south of
Surabaya. The air is fresh, the nights are cold
and mountain scenery is superb. Candi
Jawi, just by the main road 7 km below
Tretes is a slender Buddhist shrine was completed
around 1300 dedicated to King Kertanegara, who
died in 1292, of the Singhasari dynasty. It
overlooks Gunung Penangungan to the north, a
perfect cone surrounded on four sides by smaller
peaks and regarded, because of its shape, as a
replica of the holy mountain Mahameru.
Penangungan
is littered with dozens of terraced sanctuaries,
meditation grottoes and sacred pool about 80
sites. The most accessible and charming of these
is Belahan, a
bathing pool situated at Penangungan eastern
foot. It is thought to be burial site of King
Airlangga, who died in 1049.
East
Javas only sizeable temple complex is Candi
Penataran. It the state temple of
Majapahit, assembled over a period of some 250
years, between 1197 and 1454. It has no soaring
pinnacle or massive stupa, but rather a series of
shrines and pavilions arranged before a broad
platform. It is assumed that the pavilions were
originally roofed with wood and thatch, as was
the body of the main temple, now partially
reconstructed.
Mt Bromo is a
squat volcanic cone inside the much larger Bromo
Caldera. The views from the rim of this caldera
and from the narrow lip of Mt Bromo itself are an
other-worldly experience, especially if Mt Bromo
is belching steam. The traditional visit to Mt
Bromo has been a midnight climb to position
oneslf on the volcanic lip at dawn. The pink
light of the rising sun slowly illuminates the
caldera, full of fog at that hour.