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frontier and one of the last great wild places in
the world, Irian Jaya is the western half of New
Guinea, a land of snow-topped mountain and huge
swamps, of dry savannas and impenetrables jungles
where kangaroos clamber through the trees and
birds of paradise conduct ritual dances. Irian
Jayas people are Melanesian, physically and
culturally quite unlike the Javanese who govern
their affairs, one cause of the continuing
friction between the two groups.
Biak also
called Kota Karang meaning City of
Coral is a major Indonesian naval base and
a center for the fish trade including tuna
processing which is devastating the surrounding
areas. Reefs in the area are as rich as anywhere
in the world and still virtually untouched.
Jayapura known to the Dutch as
Hollandia, is the usual gateway to Irian Jaya and
administrative capital for entire province. Near
the airport, Sentani is more agreeable to
stay in than Jayapura, very relaxed with a range
of small hotels and guesthouses.
Lake
Sentani
isvery pleasant, with fishing and weaving
villages on silts around its shore, Hunt out
local carvings and pottery and bargain for a boat
ride on the lake.
The Dani of the Baliem Valley are
the best known of dozens tribes in the high
mountains of central Irian Jaya. Most men wear
nothing but a penis gourd, despite the bitter
cold of the highland night. The fields are still
worked with stone tools. Tribal warfares
continues.