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Central Taiwan
............................................................................................................................ Central Taiwan, roughly covering
the region from Miaoli to Chiayi,
west of the Central Mountain range, boasts the most
varied terrain on the island. From the summit of
snow-capped Yu Shan, the Jade Mountain, the landscape drops
3,952 meters to the harbor at Taichung, which is the
urban center of central Taiwan. The pace and pressure of
modern metropolitan Taipei are replaced here by a
quieter, slower life. It is Taiwans third largest
city with a population of around 100,000 people. Taichung
enjoys the islands best year round climate, without the
seasonal extremes of heat and cold that mark the north
and south. Although Taichung is neither as scenic nor
diverse as Taipei, it has numerous points of interest.
The Martyrs Shrine, built in 1970 has design that
provides a superb example of the harmony and balance
inherent in classical Chinese architecture. Protected by
two bronze guardian lions, the Martyrs Shrine
commemorates 72 Chinese beheaded in 1911 by the tottering
Manchu court, on the eve of the Republics
revolution.
Next to Martyrs
Shrine is Taichungs tranquil Kong Miao or
Confusion Temple.
In this shrine, the eaves rather than
flaring audaciously heavenward, curve gently downward,
cleaving close to the earth. On the altar of the shrine
is a simple black-stone stele with the name of Confucius
engraved in gold on its smooth, otherwise unadorned
surface. Every year on 28 September, this temple hosts a
colorful spectacle of ancient rituals, archaic costumes
and 2,000 year old music played on antique instruments.
North and east of
Taichung, is the Central Cross-Island Highway that stretches about 200
kilometers in distance. The Chinese claim no visit to
Taiwan is complete without a trip across this road, for
it displays with striking beauty the full gamut of the
islands rainbow hues, lush tropical valleys and
snow capped peaks, alpine forest and rocky ravines,
steamy hot springs and roaring rivers, mountain lakes and
the shimmering sea. The highway was completed in 1960, at
the cost of 450 lives. Ten thousand laborers, most of
them retired servicemen who had fought in the mainland in
the 1940s, struggled four years to complete the road.
Kukuan or Valley Pass, is a hot springs
resort lying at about 1,000 meters above sea level.
Kukuan features numerous hotels and inns and restaurants
and handicraft shops. Kukuans major attraction is
the two kilometers walk through Dragon Valley. The walk
begins with the crossing of a teak suspension bridge over
the river. The path weaves past a cave-pen of Himalayan
black bears, a house-sized cage of acrobatic monkeys, a
pair of dignified Manchurian cranes, and numerous other
denizens of an outdoor zoo.
It proceeds through sculpted shrubbery and
brilliant bougainvillea to the Mahjong Terrace of the
Eight Immortals, high atop a crag overlooking the river,
and the Goddess of Mercy Grotto, a shrine set in a bend in the
gorge. A serene white ceramic statue of Kuan Yin rests
within. Around the bend, there is the impressive 75 meter
high Dragon Valley Fall cascades into the stream .
Viewing terraces are staggered 30 meters up the side of
the gorge opposite the falls. This is the most easily
accessible of Taiwans major waterfalls. En route
back to the village, the trail forks left to the
riverside, where there is a pen full of proud peacocks
and other large gaily-feathered birds. Nearby is a
Chinese garden grotto with pools, fountains and mountains
as its backdrop.
Hohuan Shah, the Mountain of Harmonious
Happiness, looming 3,420 meter above the sea level is
Taiwans only winter ski resort. For about two
months each year, from January to March, heavy snowfall
turns the mountain white. A 400 meters long lift carries
skiers up the slopes. Even in summer, the heat rarely
rise above 15 degree Celsius. Hiking, mountain climbing
and hot springs bathing are the most attractive
recreational activities in the summer time.
Wushe which means Foggy Community is
renowned for its crystal clear alpine air, as well as the
profusion of wild cherry and plum blossoms that shower
the village in early spring. Far below, the green mirror
of Wushe
Reservoir is
surrounded by abrupt mountain escarpments. Wushe made its
mark on Taiwan history in 1930, when minority-group
tribes residing there staged a bloody but futile uprising
against Japanese occupation forces. The Japanese, with
modern weaponry, killed 1,000 of the tribesmen but not
before losing 200 of their own. A memorial plaque in the
village commemorates the massacre.
Lushan Hot Spring snuggles in the valley
below Wushe. Lushan village straddles a turbulent stream traversed by
a suspension footbridge. Hot-spring, inns lie along the
banks of both sides of the river. On the far side of the
river, just beyond the last hotel, a trail leads past a
pair of waterfalls to the smoldering source of the
spas hot water. The simmering puddles that have
formed in crevices around the source are hot enough to
boil eggs, and many visitors do just that. The water
lends flavor and vital minerals to the eggs, making them
highly nutritional. Lushan village is famous for its tea,
medicinal herbs, petrified - wood canes, wild-blossom
honey and dried mushrooms.
Taiwans most enduring popular
honeymoon resort is Sun Moon Lake, 750 meters above sea level. Entirely
enfolded in mountains and dense tropical foliage, the
lakes takes the shape of a round sun when viewed from
some of the surrounding hills, or of a crescent moon when
seen from other heights. Under the sunny skies, the
dreamy landscape of turquoise waters, jade-green hills
and drifting mountain mist lends itself well to the moods
and passions of honeymooners and other amorous couples
flocking to the lakes shores.
High on a hill near the southern end of
the lake, the Hsuanchuang Temple houses some of
Chinas most precious Buddhist relics. This temple
was built for safekeeping and preservation of the relics.
Atop a hill beyond the Hsuanchuang Temple stands the
ornate, nine-tiered Tzuen, the Pagoda of
Filial Virtue.
It was built by Chiang Kaishek in memory of his mother,
and hence the name. An uphill walk through cool glades of
bamboo, fern, maple and pine leads to the foot of the
pagoda. From here, there are spectacular views of the
entire lake and surrounding scenery.
Hsitou Bamboo Forest, a 2,485 hectare forest research
station, operated by the National Taiwan University
produces forty percent of Taiwans supply of raw
bamboo and bamboo products. There are many varities of
bamboo in this green forest, along with vast tracts of
cypress, cedar and pine. The station cultivates and
distributes more than one million tree shoots annually
for Taiwans extensive reforestation projects.
Visitors to Hsitou can stroll along paved footpaths
shaded by leafy canopies. At 1,150 meters above sea
level, this is a favorite spot for hikers and campers.
South of Taichung, in a typical country
town called Changhua, lies an impressive Buddha image
atop Pakua
Shan, Eight
Trigram Mountain. This rather sterile-sounding name
drives from the combination of broken and unbroken sticks
used by the Chinese in traditional divining procedures.
The 30 meter high concrete Buddha image mediates serenely
atop a five meter tall lotus dias. The concrete Buddha
itself is hollow, with life size dioramas of Sakyamuni
Buddhas life built into the walls. Behind the
Buddha image is a palatial three-story temple, one of the
largest in Taiwan. Within it is an impressive collection
of gilded icons. In the shrine hall on the top floor is a
large golden statue of the Buddha, attended by two
disciples. Beside this main hall are a traditional
octagonal pagoda of eight tiers and an ornate three -
tiered pavilion of classical design.
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