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The East Coast
............................................................................................................................ On the Pacific side of the great Central Range,
which bisects Taiwan from north to south, lies the
islands rugged eastern coast, unsurpassed for its
contours of land, sea and sky. Insulated by a wall of
mountains from the industrial and commercial developments
of the western plains, eastern Taiwan remains an enclave
of old fashioned island culture, a refuge where the
flavor of human feelings retains its natural taste.
Farming and fishing, the fruits of sun and sea are the
pillars of the east coast economy. A good place to begin
exploration of the eastern coast is Suao, Taiwans fifith
international harbor. A convenient springboard between
northern and eastern Taiwan, Suao is located south along
the coast from Toucheng, and is linked directly to Taipei
through modern highway. It is also the major link on the
railway that connects Taipei to Hualien. Suao is an
orderly Asian seaport that looks a lot like Hong
Kongs fabled harbor did half a century ago. The
international port facilities occupy the northern part of
the harbor town, but the local ambience is concentrated
two kilometers south , in the quaint coastal enclave
called Southside Suao. Here is the islands
enchanting fishermans wharf. Some of the best
seafood in Taiwan can be found in the restaurants along
the wharfs main street, a lane distingusihed by its
digital - clock tower in the shape of a small lighthouse.
A
roller-coaster highway of 110 kilometer built in 1920,
lies between Suao and Hualien. The highway is literally a
cliff-hanger, with the crashing breakers of the Pacific
Ocean eroding the rocks 300 to 500 meter below the
highway. Hualien ia a pleasant and cheerful town.
Travelers visiting Hualien by air for the first time are
startled by the worlds only marble airport
terminal. Hualien even boast marble temple. Hualien is
the home to Taiwan s largest ethnic minority, the
Ami, numbering about 150,000. During the annual Ami harvest
celebration, in
late August and early September, the town is particularly
festive. Other times, authentic performances of
traditional tribal dances are staged for visitors in the
Ami Culture Village about 15 minutes drive from the
downtown.
One of many attractions in Hualien is the Martyrs
Shrine, built
into a hillside on the northern outskirts of Hualien is
an impressive architectural complex that reflects
classical Chinese concepts of balance and proportion.
Taroka Gorge located about 15
kilometer from Hualien, is one of the most spectacular
nature wonders of the world. Taroka which means beautiful
in the Ami dialect is a gorge of marble cliffs, through which flows the
torrential Liwu River, Taroka winds sinously for 20
kilometers from the coast to its upper end at Tienhsiang.
The first scenic points along the route
are the Light of Zen Monastery and the Shrine of
Eternal Spring.
The Shrine of Eternal Spring is a memorial to 450 retired
servicemen who lost their lives constructing this road,
known as the Rainbow Treasure Island. The shrine is
perched on a cliff overlooking the boulder-strewn river,
with a view of a waterfall pouring through a graceful
moon bridge. At Swallons Grotto, the cliffs tower
so tall on either side of the road that direct sunlight
hits the floor of the gorge only around the noon. The
Tunnel of Nine Turns is a remarkable feat of engineering.
It cuts a crooked road of tunnels and half tunnels
through solid marble cliffs. The Bridge of Motherly
Devotion is worth a stop to explore the rocky river bed,
a jumble of huge marble boulders tossed carelessly down
the gully by some ancient convulsion. A small marble
pavilion stands on a hillock. The final stop on the
Taroko Gorge is tour is Teinhsiang.

Taitung, the
sleepy seaside city is pleasant and airy. At about the
same latitude as Kaohsiung on the opposite coast, Taitung
is the economic hub for the lower portion of the east
coast. Taitung do not offer much tourist attraction. The
most popular attraction is Carp Hill, with its Dragon and
Phoenix Temple providing fine views of the city and the
sea.
South of Taitung, tucked against the
mountain-side at the mouth of a rugged canyon, along the
rocky Chihpen River is Chihpen, one of Taiwans
oldest, quaintest and most remote hot spring resorts. The
village of Chihpen lies on the coast 12 kilometers south
of Taitung. The hot spring is another two kilometers inland. The
Chihpen Valley, which cuts into the steep mountains
behind the spa, is reminiscent of the gorgeous wild
gorges hidden deep within the remote mountain ranges of
western Sichuan province on the mainland. Here are thick
forests and clear streams, steep cliffs and cascading
waterfalls, bamboo groves and fruit orchards, robust
mountain dwellers and exotic flora and fauna. The valley
is worth a thorough exploration by foot. A few hundred
meters beyond the resort village, a sign points left
towards the White Jade Waterfall, which lies about one
kilometer up a winding paved path, which echoes loudly
with the full-throated calls of birds and insects. The
waters of White Jade tumble down a jumble of strewn
boulders, dense growths of fern, bamboo and gnarled
roots. A few kilometers up the road from the falls stands
the arched entrance to the Chihpen Forest Recreation
Area. The biggest treat in the Chihpen Valley is the
Chinghueh Temple, located steep hill about a kilometer
from the lower hot spring area.
Taimali is a town on the south of Chihpen.
A 100 meter wide beach gray sand and smooth pebbles runs
for about 15 kilometers along the shoreline. The
sparkling blue water is completely free of pollution, the
surf is gentle, and privacy is abundant. Taimali is
principally a fishing town, and its fishermen use unique motorized
rafts. They are
built by lashing together a half - dozen six meter long
plastic water pipes, bracing them with bamboo and binding
them with bailing wire. Nosiy outboard motors provide the
needed power.
Lanyu, or Orchid Island, is the most
unlikely jewel in the waters surrounding Taiwan. An
island of 45 square kilometers, it is 60 kilometers east
of Taiwans southern tip and 80 kilometers southeast
of Taitung. Lanyu is home to 4,250 Yami, Taiwans
smallest minority tribe, With colorful costumes and a
strongly-matriarchal society, the Yami are often regarded
as the northernmost extent of Polynesian ancestry. These
people live simple from the fruits of the sea,
supplementing their daily catch with taro and a few
fruits. The entire island can be driven around in a
little over two hours. The coastal rock formations, eroded by weather
and water, are particular impressive. One thing
conspicuosly missing, given the islands English
name are wild orchids. They have all been dug up and
sold.
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