Taipei was
no longer a sleepy country town after the Republic
of China established their government in northern Taiwan
in 1949. As early as the 1970s, all the blessings and
evil modernisation gripped the city in a frenzy of
growth, which for better or worse continue until today.
Ten of thousands of taxis, buses, private automobiles and
lorries, hundreds of thousands of motorcycles log the
underpasses, overpasses roundabouts and flyovers of
modern roads and expressway. The drab, gray compartments
of concrete that once characterized Taipei architecture
now squat in the shadows of high-rise glass and metal.
However Taipei remains as one of the most staunchly
traditional cities in Asia even with the drastic
modernisation. Unlike Hong Kong or Singapore, Taipei has
not succumbed to the creeping Westernisation. In their
headlong lunge into the future, neither Taipei or its
people have left behind their heritage, the heart that
keeps Taipei moving is unquestionably Chinese.
Taipei
is divided into northern and southern districts by
Chunghsiao Road, site of theTaipei Railway Station.
Chungshan North and Chungshan South roads slice the city
into eastern and western portions. One of the citys
easiest landmarks is the Grand Hotel. Located atop a ridge at the northern end
of the city, this 530 rooms hotel looks somewhat like an
ancient palace, built in the classical imperial style of
old China. The massive multi-story new wing is crowned by
the largest classical Chinese roof on earth.
East of the Grand Hotel about half a
kilometer is the Revolutionary Martyrs Shrine on Peian Road. It is open
daily and the entire complex is built in the palace style
of the Ming dynasty. Each structure attempts to reproduce
a similar hall or pavilion in Beijing. Dedicated to the
fallen heroes of Chinas war, the arched portals of
the main gate open onto a vast courtyard, past guest
pavilions, drums and bell towers. Two gigantic
brass-studd doors open onto the main shrine, where the
names of the heroes are inscribed beside murals depicting
their feats.
To the southwest of the Grand Hotel is
Kong Miao, the Confucius Temple, on Talung Street. A tranquil retreat
compared to the citys other places of worship,
absent are the throngs of worshippers supplicating their
gods with prayer and offerings, the cacophony of gongs
and drums, and the gaudy idols. Absent, too are images of
Confucius. The tranquility is fitting, Confucius preached
the virtues of peace and quiet. The architecture of the
temple is subtle yet exquisite and highlighted by
magnificient roofs.
Nestled
in the foothills, several kilometers to the northeast of
the Grand Hotel and past the Martyrss Shrine is the
most important attraction in Taipei, if not all of
Taiwan. An imposing complex of beige brick buildings,
topped with green and imperial yellow slate roofs, houses
the National
Palace Museum. The
building is impressive, and the treasures within are
unimaginable. Next to the museum is a small but perfectly
styled and very attractive , chin-shan-yuan Chinese
garden, is worth a stroll. Displayed in the Palace Museum
the exhibitions change from time to time are some 6,000
works of art representing the zenith of 5,000 years of
Chinese creativity. And these are just a fraction of the
more than 700,000 paintings, porcelains, bronzes,
rubbings, tapestries, books and other art objects stored
in nearly 4,000 crates located in vaults that are
tunneled into the mountain behind the museum. The
National Palace Museum opened in 1965. But the history of
its treasures can be traced back more than 1,000 years,
to the beginning of the Song dynasty (AD 960-1279).
The best place to begin a downtown walking
tour is from the Taipei Railway Station. This is not just
a station but an impressive and spacious palace, with
four floors below street level. Close to the railway
station are the bus terminals, South of the station
stands the Taiwan Provincial Museum, eye-catching in its
Greek Revival style on Hsiangyang Road. It is less
fascinating that the national museum, but it offers
important displays of minority group handicrafts, clothes
and artifacts.
Behind the museum is Taipei New Park, which opened in 1907 and
featuring ponds, pagodas, and pavilions. The best time to
walk the grounds of the New Park is at dawn, when
thousands of the citys residents stretch, dance,
exercise and move through various forms of taiji, shaolin
and other disciplines. To the east of the park are most
of the important government ministries and offices. Most
prominent is the Presidential Building.
A massive monument
to the late president,
the Chiang Kai-shek Cultural Centre is located at
Chungshun South Road. Dedicated in 1980, the fifth
anniversary of Chiang death, the enormous 76 meter high
Memorial Hall dominates the landscaped grounds. Inside is
an imposing 25 ton bronze statue of the late president.
The main entrance to the Memorial Hall is a magnificent
arch, in traditional Ming style, that towers 30 meters
high and stretches 75 meters across. One feature of the
memorial are the 18 different styles of traditional
Chinese windows, at eye-level along the entire length of
the perimeter wall. Part of the cultural centre complex
and standing amidst beautiful grounds are the National
Opera House, built in Chinese Palace style, and the
Concert Hall.
West of the Chiang Kai-shek memorial and
near the river is the oldest and most famous of
Taipeis myriad temples, Lungshan or Dragon Mountain, a reference
to the large collection of toothsome creature on its busy
roof. It was built early in the eighteenth century to
honor Taiwans patron deities, Kuan Yin and Matsu.
The building was inadvertently hit by an Allied air raid
in 1945. So intense were the flames from the incendiary
boom that they melted the iron railings surrounding the
large camphor-wood statue of Kuan Yin. The hall was
totally destroyed, yet the wooden statue of Kuan Yin
somehow withstood the searing flames. The main hall was
rebuilt in 1957, enveloping the statue that gazes with
unceasing equanimity at worshippers from its spot on the
main altar. In addition to the Kuan Yin statue, the
temple is renowed for its fine stone sculpture,
woodcarving and bronze work. Especially striking are the
12 main support column that hold up the central hall.
They appear to come alive with their dragons hewn from
solid stone.
Only a few minutes walk from
Lungshan temple is a district called Snake Alley by
tourists. The Western sobriquet stems from the nature of
business conducted by some of the streets vendors.
Their shop stack with cages of hissing snakes. Customers
watch as the chosen snake is strung live on a wire,
stretched taut and literally unzipped open before their
eyes with a small knife. Blood and bile from the squirming
snake are squeezed
into a glass containing potent spirit and herbs.
For customers who are keen on seeking
additional "kick", the vendor will even add a
few drops of poison venom to the mixture. Other than the
snakes, the alley offers countless fortune tellers,
vendors of herbal portions, tattoo parlors, fresh fruit stalls and hawkers
of baubles and bangles.